Soviet relics, an underground wine city, and a self-ruling region that feels frozen in time.
This is what awaits in Moldova, a tiny country sandwiched between Romania and Ukraine, consistently ranked as the least-visited in Europe.
It was also dubbed the world’s unhappiest place in a bestselling book in 2008.
But today, Moldova is better known for an authenticity that is vanishing elsewhere on the continent.
I spent four days there to see what it’s all about.


English (US)